Steinau an der Straße

In Hesse, there is a place called Steinau an der Straße. It lies on the River Kinzig, between the Spessart hills to the south and the Vogelsberg mountains to the north. It is a small town with shops and homes, alleyways and streets, where just over 10,000 people live. There is St. Catherine’s Church, whose oldest parts were built as early as the 13th century, and a large castle that once served as a residence for the lords and counts of Hanau. But why does Steinau have the name “an der Straße” (“on the road”)? Here’s why: In centuries past, there were few roads. They were often just unpaved tracks that were almost impassable in the rain or winter. But most people didn’t mind, because they had to work hard to earn a living. Only a few people travelled. They included kings and nobles with their retinues, as well as pilgrims, students and messengers. Craftspeople, musicians and merchants also travelled through the land, offering their services and goods.

Some of these roads became major routes centuries ago. One of the most important was the “Via Regia”. In Germany, it connected the cities of Mainz, Frankfurt, Erfurt, Leipzig, Görlitz and Breslau. To the west, it was possible to travel through France and Spain to the famous pilgrimage site of Santiago de Compostela, and east to Moscow. Because Steinau lay on this route, about halfway between Frankfurt and Erfurt, it eventually called itself “Steinau an der Straße”.

In the past, travelling was not only arduous, but also dangerous and expensive. Travellers were often attacked and robbed, had to pay tolls again and again, and find a place in some dingy inn. Only a few could afford riding horses or bumpy carriages. Travellers banded together in groups or hired armed riders to accompany them for part of the way. These guards were often based in castles, including Steinau Castle, which also provided protection for the town’s residents and those living nearby. Today, castles no longer need to provide this kind of protection, and our roads are well suited to modern traffic. In Steinau, little remains to remind us of those times. There is still an inn, though, that has been welcoming guests for more than 400 years. Steinau an der Straße now calls itself the “Brothers Grimm Town”. The brothers Jakob and Wilhelm Grimm, who later collected the world-famous Children’s and Household Tales, spent five years of their childhood in this town. There is a museum, a fairytale fountain and numerous events about fairytales every year.